The site Wanderer Writes presents personal travel stories and memoirs, tips and guides to destinations around the world, based on the author's first-hand experiences. The posts tend to focus on little-known places and less traveled roads through popular destinations while highlighting different cultures, history, and nature.
If you look at the cinder cone volcano of Sunset Crater as the sun’s last rays illuminate it, you’ll see why it got its name. The top of the volcano seems to glow in the gold and orange colors juxtaposed to the black lava around its bottom.
This gorgeous view stays even during the day when the bright sun washes out most colors. It might not be as bright, but it still showcases the same combination of colors.
Sunset Crater – view from the trail
No wonder we love the place. Not only to visit it for a few hours, or hike the trails. It is our favorite spot to camp in Arizona.
Table of Contents
The Bonito Campground
The campground is on the Bonito Lava Flow, in the shadows of tall ponderosa pines. Since we got there early, before lunchtime, we could choose from some of the best sites.
Our “backyard” – view from our site.
We set up our tent on the black lava sand created about 1000 years ago.
A great place to set up the tent
Grey squirrels were running up and down the surrounding trees, collecting pine cones and munching on some. Two very noisy stellar jays chattered on the tree above our picnic table. Hummingbirds were fluttering by, and ravens were flying above us. Hot during midday in the high desert, a cool breeze made our picnic more enjoyable.
We waited to set up the tent until later when things would cool down. In the meantime, we went off for a walk to take a walk on the trail through the lava flow.
We walked up on a hill behind our campsite. It offered more shade.
Behind our campsite, a trail led up on a small hill.
The Lava’s Edge Trail
Later on, we set off on the lava’s edge trail that connects the campsite and the Visitor Center to the Lava Flow Trail, the best known one of the Park. We didn’t hike the whole trail though; it was still too hot to walk on hot black lava with the sun beating down on us.
To be fair, most of this trail is shaded, but the ponderosa pines don’t give you much shade, especially close after midday.
We still enjoyed walking at the edge of the Bonito Lava Flow. Jagged rocks signaled the edge of the lava flow while we were walking on loose cinders and rough basalt rocks. it wasn’t an easy walk although in cooler weather I’d love to do it.
After enjoying it for a while, we turned around and drove instead.
The A’a Trail
Right off the parking lot by Lenox Crater a shorter trail, called A’a Trail leads into the sharp Bonito Lava Flow. Its name comes from the a’a basaltic lava rock that is so prevalent here, formed as the Bonito Lava Flow cooled.
This is a short and easy trail, though it is exposed, you won’t find shade here. Though I stepped on it, I didn’t walk long, leaving it for later, or for a cooler day.
Instead, we crossed the road and walked up Lenox Crater, in the shade of mature ponderosa pines.
Across from the lava trail, we climbed Lenox Crater on a well-maintained, proper trail. It was a great place to be on a hot summer day. Tall ponderosa pines surround the black sand trail that zigzags towards the top of the cinder cone.
I remember the days when this trail didn’t exist. You could still climb Lenox Crater, but the old trail was barely visible, and it climbed up in a straight line through loose lava cinders. Here, the shortest route was not the fastest route, since it took forever to reach the top through the pebbles and sand.
The trail takes us on a harder surface, easier to walk, though it’s longer.
On the top, we have a great view of the Katchina Peaks in Flagstaff (on maps the San Francisco Peaks)
When we got to the top, we still walked or rather ran in loose sand to get inside the cone. We were in the center of a bowl, surrounded by lava sand. The only humans in there, a few bluejay and crows joined us. With no breeze, it gets hot in the bowl, but as we each found a tree to sit in its shade (one would not have enough shade for two people).
We tried waiting for a breeze, however small, that would make our climb out of the bowl easier. At last, we gave up the wait and set off. The climb was short anyway, and once on top, we enjoyed the shaded trail.
Since we thought we still had plenty of daylight, rather than turning around, we took the trail towards Sunset Crater. On the way, we enjoyed some of the best views of the famous cinder cone, at sunset, understanding why it got its name.
Sunset Crater at sunset. View from the Lenox Crater trail
A well-defined trail leads to Sunset Crater from where we were. Once off Lenox Crater, it flattens and goes through the lava bed before joining the main trail.
On the trail from Lenox to Sunset Crater
This is the area most tourists know of Sunset Crater. Years ago, it was the only area with a proper trail.
We stopped for a break, then set off on the Interpretive Trail.
Since it was getting dark, we only walked the upper paved loop, leaving the most spectacular part of the trail for the next day. We still enjoyed great views of the Bonito Lava Flow and the surrounding volcanoes.
Back at the Campsite
The campsite was full by the time we returned though most of the people were in Winnebagos or pop-up campers. While I appreciate that many people need all their amenities with them, I miss the days when most people in the Bonito Camp Ground used tents.
It was quieter without all the motors running. It also seemed friendlier, since everyone was outside all the time, inevitable interacting with each other. You couldn’t sit inside your tent all day. Well, that’s what we get for using convenient campgrounds, with nice clean bathrooms and running water, though I appreciate both.
After dinner, we walked over to the amphitheater for the ranger talk. This time we learned about some wildlife in and around Sunset Crater.
As we went back to the tent, the full moon was so bright, I felt it was daytime. But we knew later, after the moon sets, we would get up to look at the sky.
The main reason we camp in Sunset Crater is the night sky
The highlight of our camp at Sunset Crater is always the night sky. On a moonless night, or after this bright celestial body sets, we have the best view of the starlit sky.
Sunset Crater is an International Dark Sky Park because it’s far from all light pollution. We knew the moon would set around 2 am this time, so we tried to go to bed early so we would wake up to enjoy the show.
When we got out of the tent in the middle of the night, the Milky Way stretched across the sky.
The Milky Way. Photo credit: Pixabay
We could come up for a day trip to Sunset Crater. But unless we camped, we would never see the night sky the way we do in this campground. And the view is worth it every time.
Emese Fromm is the editor and the main writer for Wanderer Writes. Some of her travel articles have been featured in publications like Matador Network, GoNomad, DesertUSA, MapQuest Travel, among others. She loves to travel the world with her family, trying to find the less-traveled path anywhere she goes (sometimes she succeeds).